BanDai 1/72 Scale Millennium Falcon Perfect Grade Build Update 1

After the main console was finished, I moved on to the side walls of the cockpit.  I had already given up the idea of using decals for the side walls.  Instead I painted them with a clear flat and then started painting the gray areas.  From there I moved on to dry brushing the lights and buttons with silver.  Then used some transparent blue and red to color some of the buttons.  Here are the results.  I think it turned out relatively well.

In the first post on this build I indicated that I was going to try to apply my custom decal to the back wall of the cockpit.

Back wall light blocked and next to it the custom decal.

Well it didn’t turn out well.  I applied the decal using MicroSet, but it became evident very quickly that there were too many raised areas on the back wall and some of them were larger than I thought.  Off came the decal and I repainted the back wall with primer and matt black.  I then painted the lighter panels with Tamyia NATO Black, the padding around the door with Model Air Sand Yellow and the door itself with Tamyia Dark Sea Gray.  Then I started removing paint from the areas that I wanted light to come through.  I also added a bit of Tamyia transparent Blue, Red and Green to add color to the lights and buttons on the wall.  I used the transparent colors on both the front and the back to enhance the color.  I sanded the back side of the light bars to diffuse the light at bit.  I also sprayed the back side with some Matt Clear to add a bit of diffusion there as well.

Before putting the cockpit in the hull I noticed that the way the light shines on it from behind, that BanDai has intended for only the light bars to shine.  None of the buttons and lights would shine.  To remedy that, I did some surgery on the hull part.  This should allow some of the light to fall on the rest of the wall and not just the light bars.

I then also saw that the LED holder had just tiny holes for the light to shine through.  I used a round file to open the holes up and allow more light through.

Once that was done I put the LEDs in place, turned them on and checked how it looks.

With that complete, I started on finishing the cockpit assembly.  I painted the inside of the window piece.  The lower section was painted black in line with the side panels and then the rest of the interior was given a black wash to show detail and give it a bit of a grimy look, then it was sprayed with Matt Clear.  Next I snapped the hull halves together.  I then noticed that the halves would not close completely without some pressure.  Time for the plastic weld.  I glued the outside section together first, followed by the side facing the rest of the ship.  I was able to close all the seam lines except for the last section that would head toward the rest of the ship.  There was a gap that I just couldn’t close.  I pulled out some 0.05 inch plastic sheet and cut a small section to put into the gap.  Then I used my plastic weld on it and when that was dry I cut off the excess.  The gap is now nicely closed.

I then attached all the rest of the plastic bits that needed to go on, including an optional photoetch grill section.  The cockpit window section doesn’t quite fit right.  I will wait to glue that part in until I get it all painted.

On to the next section.  Thanks for looking.

BanDai 1/72 Scale Millennium Falcon Perfect Grade Build

Here is the new project.  The Millennium Falcon in 1/72 scale by BanDai.  The kit is beautifully detailed and very closely matches the studio model.  If you check out the parts closely, you can see the parts that came from other plastic models of the day.  For example, I’ve found a transmission case and under chassis from car models, suspension parts from cars and tanks and other tiny bits that the ILM modelers used to create the Falcon.  It is a very cool kit.  It also includes a lighting kit so I won’t have to try and add those components.  The parts are all very crisply molded and no signs of flash anywhere.  Most mold lines and ejector pin marks are in hidden areas so they don’t mar the finish or require much cleaning.  On the other hand, with the hundreds of small parts and sub assemblies this model will take a bit of time to complete.  This build series will probably have some long gaps between posts since it will take time to find breaking points.

Anyway, it’s time to start.  I’ll be starting with the cockpit.  I don’t do figures or cockpits very often so they are not one of my strong points.  I hope I can do the model justice.

I started by spraying primer on the cockpit seats and the figures.  I then gathered the colors I needed for the figures, Flesh, Aged White, White Gray, Red Brown, Black, Blue, White, Light Brown, Gold, Sand Yellow, Transparent Yellow and Silver.  I used a small fine brush to get the faces and hands, then started on the clothes with the varying shades of white, gray and brown.

C3-PO and Chewbacca got and undercoat of black.  Then C3-PO got painted Gold and then that was overcoated with the transparent yellow which really gave him a nice gold look.  Chewbacca got an overall coat of red brown.  His belt, face and legs got a drybrush of black to darken those areas. Then a drybrush of light brown.  The boxes on his belt were painted silver and his face got a light drybrush of black to bring out some details and highlight his nose.  The figures aren’t perfect but for me they turned out well.  Meanwhile the padding on the seats got a coat of sand yellow.

Next I started on the cockpit control panels.  BanDai includes a some nice decals for the instrument panels.  I have heard from many sources that the decals don’t lay down well over the control panels and decal solvents don’t  help much.  So in light of that, I made a set of custom decals using my decal paper and my ALPS printer.  The decals turned out well.  After clear coating the front control panel I applied the first two decals.  After several applications of Micro Sol the decals finally laid down pretty well over the raised details.  It was good that my custom decals are so thin, otherwise I don’t think they would have worked at all.  The control panel between the two main panels had some LARGE raised areas and when I tried to apply a decal to that area, the decal just would not conform well at all.  I ended up taking a fine brush and hand painting the area.

It looks like, from that experience that the panels on the side walls will have to be hand painted.  I’m still holding out some hope that the decal for the back wall will work.  The raised areas on that panel are not that large.  We shall see.

More to come.

1/144 Saturn I Block I Build Final Update

I’ve been working on this model for a while since the last update.  After the primer went on, many flaws showed up that I couldn’t see on the bare resin.  Fixing these required many iterations of putty, sand, primer, and inspect.  Sometimes I thought I was getting close only to find some new pinholes show up due to sanding the surface of the resin.  Martin really needs to invest in some vacuum casting tools.  Anyway I finally got through that stage and was able to start painting.  I started out by painting the engine nozzles and turbo pump exhausts with Tamyia bright silver paint.  Then I painted the inside of the nozzles and the holes I drilled in the turbo pump exhausts with clear smoke.  I then gave the model a coat of gloss white.

After letting the gloss white cure for a couple of days I started masking for the black areas on the first stage boat tail.  The rest of the rocket is white.  The boat tail was a challenge to mask due to all the compound curves.  I finally got it masked satisfactorily, including the heat shield area on the base.

Next I sprayed gloss black on the base of the rocket.  I let the paint dry for a few hours before removing the masking tape.  The black areas turned out fine.  The black tanks will have some custom decals applied rather than trying to mask them off.  The area between the tanks is still a bit rough, but it is MUCH better than it was out of the box.

To create the custom decals I started out with a scan of the decals that came in the kit and then photos of the actual vehicle.  I resized and modified them to be more accurate.  I added stripes that go halfway around the dummy third stage just below the nosecone and at the third stage/transition junction centered on Position I.  I also added some inverted “T” shapes that appear on the dummy second stage at the interstage junction.  The checkerboard roll pattern that appears around the top of the first stage was not correct at all in the kit decal.  I measured the circumference of the area and then using photos counted the number of checkers and drew a new decal.  Also there is a slightly larger block that appears at 8 places around the roll pattern and I added those as well.  I double printed the white areas of the vehicle number and position number decals to help avoid the black from showing through.

I knew I was in for a challenge in applying the fuel tank decals.  There are a number of raised areas that are hard to account for when making the decal.  I had to cut the decals in places and use some black paint to touch up a few spots.  Micro Set and Micro Sol were used quite a bit in getting the decals to settle over the added details.  I also had to double layer the decals that were put on over the black.  Even double printing the white while printing the decals was not enough to keep the black from showing through.  Applying the second decal over the first eliminated the black showing through.  In the end the model looks pretty good.

With the decals in place, I let the model dry completely overnight and then sprayed a gloss coat over them to protect them and prepare them for an overall clear flat coat.  After the clear coats dried overnight I then added the engine nozzles and turbo pump exhausts with some CA.  Finally, the model is done.  It looks nice sitting on its stand.

The stand should be temporary since I plan on adding SA-5 and SA-10 to the collection to show the Saturn I progression.  However those will have to wait a bit.  I need to take a break from the resin before tackling those kits.  Thanks for following along.  I hope to start the next build shortly, probably a sci-fi subject.

1/144 Saturn I Block I Build Update 3

More progress has been made on the SA-1 model.  The final detail bits have been added.  After going through more photos of the SA-1 vehicle, I noticed that the fuel tank on quadrant 1 does not have the same valve detail as on the other tanks.  Instead of a recessed valve there is a raised detail where the on pad fuel fill and drain line attaches.  I made this part with a stack of styrene strips with each strip getting smaller as they go up.  This helped in shaping the part since it has tapers on both ends.  The top appears to have a round shape so I sanded that in.  The part then got attached over the original tank valve recess.

Next I moved on to the air scoops on the outboard engine fairings.  I’ve been thinking of how I would model these parts since I began the build.  I finally came up with an acceptable solution.  I pulled out the Walthers piping sprue that I used earlier to create the turbo pump exhausts.  I looked carefully at the ends of the runners that lead to some of the parts on the sprue.  Some of the ends had a rounded profile and were close to the right diameter.  I used a sharp #11 blade and cut off the hemispherical ends of the runners and then cut those in half.  This left me with some 1/4 sphere shapes that were close the size needed.  I then glued them in place on the fairings and used the #11 blade to shape them to more closely match the correct profile.  They may still be slightly oversized but they look close, so I’m going to leave them at that.

Next I noticed that there were vent openings at the top of some of the fuel and LOX tanks.  Not all of them just some of them.  I found some drawings online that showed the plumbing of those vents.  The drawing along with some photos allowed me to determine which tanks had the vent holes.  I used a small drill bit in my pin vice and made the vents.

I then primed the upper dummy stages and the first stage.  I’m sure it won’t be the last time I prime these parts.  It seem that every time I think I’m done, I find some more pin holes that need to be filled.  I also attached the engines and turbo pump exhausts to a paint stir stick and primed them as well.

The next thing will be to glue the upper stages to the first stage.  Some more sanding and filling will be required at the join.  But that is for next time.  Thanks for looking.

1/144 Saturn I Block I Build Update 2

I’ve had other things going on, so it has taken me longer than I planned to get back to the build.  But I now have made some progress.  First I trimmed the outboard engine fairings.  They have an angled edge rather than straight.  The angle needs to somewhat match the subtle angle on the boat tail.  The next thing to do was to complete the turbo pump exhausts. I cut out some brackets from 0.010 styrene sheet and attached them to the pipes.

I then drilled some small holes in the first stage boattail to accept the exhaust pipes.  I’ll attach them later in the build.  I also drilled holes at the base of the fuel and LOX tanks to match photos of SA-1.

Finally, for this post are a couple of pictures of the continuing filling and sanding of the model to cover some of the blemishes in the castings.  You can also see that I’ve added some tunnel covers to the fuel tanks and a vent pipe on the fuel tank of Position 4.

That’s it for now.

1/144 Saturn I Block I Build Update 1

I finally made some new progress on the SA-1 model.  I glued the top section of the first stage in place.  I then also glued the second and third stages plus the nose cone together.  The first stage needs more clean up and filling.  I started where the tanks meet the boat tail.  I thought about using my Dremel to get rid of some of the junk in between the tanks on the first stage, but it is such a confined area that I’m afraid that I’ll mess up the tanks on either side.  I think I’ll be adding filler between the tanks to cover up the lumps an bumps there. The dummy upper stage assembly also requires some filling and sanding.

While waiting for some filler to dry I started scribing the panel lines into the base of the boat tail.  I also drilled some holes to insert locator pins for the engine bells to be added later.  Next I drilled a hole in the base of each engine bell.  I also glued some 3/64 inch styrene rod into each of the locator holes in the boat tail.

The outboard engine fairings that come in the kit are too small and do not fit well on the boat tail.  I instead used some 0.010 inch sheet styrene to make some replacements.  I glued them on with Plasti-Zap CA glue.  Since each curve on the boat tail is a bit different on this kit I numbered the edges of each fairing so I could get them in the right place.  Plus I continue to add filler to the tanks on the first stage.

I also started making the inboard engine turbopump exhaust ports.  I’m not that great at bending styrene rod, so when I can, I adapt other parts.  I had some piping left from a Walthers Piping kit that I used on a steampunk rocket a while back.  I pulled out the runners to see if there were some parts there that I could use as a turbopump exhaust.  Sure enough I found some.  I only had four pieces that I could use, so I had to make sure not to mess them up.  After cutting them from the runner I carefully trimmed off the ends that I didn’t need.  I then drilled out the ends that will be seen so they look more like pipes instead of rods.

That’s it for now.  I have to make some brackets for the turbopump exhausts before they can be attached.  I also have some more detail items that need to go on the first stage tanks, but first I have to finish the filling and sanding.

More to come.

New PC Build

After running my current PC for 11 years I decided that it was time to build a new computer.  The old one was powered by an Intel Core 2 Duo E8600 processor.  I had to change the graphics card twice during that time.  The current one is an ASUS Radeon RX560 and it works pretty well.  The hard drives had been replaced once to upgrade them to 1tb drives.   It also survived a couple of hard drive failures.  The drives were set up in two RAID 1 arrays, so the drive failures were relatively easy to fix.  But this PC had gone from XP to Windows 7 and now Windows 10 so there was a lot of baggage that it was lugging around from those upgrades.  Plus the old RAID user interface was not supported on Windows 10.  It was time to build a new PC.

I decided that I’d like the new PC to last at least 5 years if not more so I decided to over build it a bit.  The processor would be a Ryzen 5 3600X processor.  It has 6 cores and 12 threads so I should have to problem in the compute area.  I originally was going to use the Ryzen 5 3600 but there was a sale and the 3600X was the same price as then 3600 so I figured that I might as well get the slightly higher clock of the 3600X.  I put in 16GB of memory in two 8GB sticks clocked at 3200MHz.

The motherboard was a difficult choice.  I really wanted an X570 board but they were all pretty pricey.  I thought about an MSI Tomahawk B450 board, but I would probably have to flash the BIOS just to get it running and I didn’t have spare processor around.  I was looking at a couple of MSI X570 boards and an ASUS X570 board.  I ended up getting the ASUS TUF Gaming X570-Plus (Wi-Fi) board.  It went on sale and had most of the features I wanted.

For hard drives I went with the 1TB Western Digital Black SN750 NVMe SSD for my system drive and I pulled one of the 1TB hard drives out of my old PC that had all my data files on it as my storage drive.

I decided that I also wanted a small bit of RGB in this build.  For that I got a three pack of Rosewill RGB 120mm case fans that came with a control box and were also compatible with the ASUS Aura system.  The downside of the Rosewill fans is that they are not PWM so the motherboard could not control the fan speed.  I would have to set their speed with the included remote.  The G.Skill Trident Z Neo memory also was RGB.

The power supply is a fully modular EVGA 650 G5 650W 80-Plus Gold.  I went with the Fractal Meshify C case.  It has great airflow, a glass side panel, easily cleaned filters, a PSU shroud, and room in the back for cable management.  It was a bit more that I had originally planed to spend but it is a well reviewed case.

I also stole the Radeon RX560 from my old PC.  I will replace it when I save up some for a newer more powerful card.

I started the build by installing the CPU and heatsink/Fan.  Then I inserted the memory and the NVMe SSD.  With that complete I installed it in my case.

I then installed the PSU and the required power cables.  Next I connected the front panel cables to their proper places on the mother board.  Then the SATA cable from the data drive.  The 3.5 inch hard drive is in a small drive cage at the opposite end of the PSU shroud from the power supply.   Then I started hooking up the power to the motherboard.  Then the graphics card went in.  I also routed the VGA power cable to the graphics card.

The fan cables got routed into the back where they attached to the controller board.  Then the control cable got routed to the one and only ARGB header on the motherboard.  This would allow the fan RGB to be controlled by the ASUS Aura software. The only problem was that the power cable would not connect to the controller.  I could only push it slightly on the pins and then it would stop.  I tried several times and it was just not going to happen.  I then went and got an old LED from my stash and tried to push one of the legs into the control cable.  It would only go in a small way and then stop, like there was some obstruction inside the socket.  I looked and looked even under a magnifying glass, but I could not see any obstruction.  Finally, I decided to get a straight pin from my wife’s sewing room and see if I could stick that into the hole.  Yes, it did go in.  I then took the pin and moved it around in a circular pattern to see if that would open the hole up.  I then tried putting in into the controller and it went in.  It was securely in place and wasn’t too loose.

The cable management in the back is a bit messy but at least it can’t be seen.  One of these days I’ll learn to properly run cables.

At this point I checked the back panel and noticed that the USB sockets didn’t quite line up with the the openings in the back panel cover.  I really missed that one.  To fix it I had to remove the rear facing case fan, then disconnect the power cables from the motherboard.  Next, disconnect the SATA and the RGB cables and unscrew the motherboard.  Then carefully pull the motherboard forward to get it away from the back panel cover.  Then carefully put it back into place and this time make sure that the USB sockets cleared the back panel openings.  Finally, hook everything back up.

I plugged it in and everything works.  I’ve installed Windows 10 Pro and most of my software applications.  I can access all my data.  So far so good.  Below is what it looks like when it is on.  I need to play with the Aura software some, but I have lots of time for that.

‘Till next time…