BanDai 1/72 Y-Wing Build Final

I went back to the main fuselage and painted a few pipes with copper. I think it helps to bring attention to the amount of piping that is on this section of the kit.

The next thing to do on the Y-Wing was to build the engine nacelles. Once that was done I started applying decals. The trickiest decal was the one that went on the right nacelle. It had a couple of raised details as well as being over a ribbed area.

It took a lot of Solavaset and some careful pin pricks to get the decals to yield. MicroSol just wasn’t strong enough. Eventually they laid down well.

I was then able to apply the decals to the nose section.

I assembled the main sub-assemblies and then applied the remaining decals to the fuselage.

Then is was time to fit the final pipes.

Then the weathering could begin in earnest. I had already weathered the engine exhausts and the guide vanes. I applied a black wash to the whole fuselage and most of the engines. Then I added the panel lines and I blackened the torpedo ports. I also did some sponge work to simulate paint chipping in a few areas.

Here are some photos of the completed model.

This was a fun build. It didn’t take a long time and also didn’t need any additional details. The finished product looks nice and will take it’s place alongside the Millennium Falcon and X-Wing.

Thanks for looking. I have a couple of new project planned. I’ll probably be starting them after the Thanksgiving holiday.

BanDai 1/72 Y-Wing Build

While I have been working on the stealth XST and the Mercury spacecraft models I have also been working on this BanDai Y-Wing kit. It has been on the bottom of the priority list until the last couple of weeks. It is another amazing BanDai Star Wars kit.

It has piping details that don’t seem to quit. It is probably the most detailed Star Wars kit I’ve worked on since the Millennium Falcon. I didn’t strictly follow the order of the instructions. The instructions are broken down into four sub-assemblies. I began with the main fuselage. It takes quite a bit of time locating and placing all the pipes. Here is a photo of the completed fuselage.

After that I moved on to the pilot figures. I painted them about the same as I had done with the X-Wing pilot figures that I did a few months ago. After the paint, I sprayed them with a gloss coat and applied the decals to the helmets. They then got a shot of matte clear. I finished by putting clear over the visors.

Before they go into the model I’ll apply a black wash to help highlight some of the details.

Next came the cockpit. There are decals included to go over the instrument panels. However, just like the Millennium Falcon, there are just too many raised details to allow the decals to conform properly. Instead, I sprayed them with NATO Black and then did some dry-brushing with silver to highlight the edges. Then I painted the controls various colors of red, green, yellow and white.

The front of each engine nacelle has details that deserve some attention. I painted them with Chrome Silver, copper, and brass. I also applied some transparent blue, red and green in some places. It is a shame that these details will be hidden by the nacelle covers.

I also took the time to paint the R2 droid dome with silver and then used transparent green for some of the raised details and then black for the various lenses. His head won’t go on the kit until after all the weathering is complete.

I then assembled the cockpit.

Which then allowed me to assemble the forward nose area.

Next up will be assembling the engine nacelles and applying decals.

Thanks for looking, more to come.

Horizon Models 1/72 Mercury Spacecraft Build Update 2 (Final)

Here is the final dash to the finish line for this build. With the decals complete on the retro pack, I painted the small posigrade rockets red and used CA to glue the straps to the retro packs.

The kit does not include any clear parts for the port holes or windows. To represent them I painted dark blue over the area where they should be.

Then each capsule got a shot of clear gloss over its upper surfaces. When that had cured I started applying decals. Some of the decals that needed to go over the corrugated shingles needed a few applications of MicroSol to get them to properly lay down into the details. They finally did flow into the details and look pretty good.

When the decals had dried they got a gloss coat to protect them and then a matte clear coat to reduce the shine. The window/porthole areas got drops of clear gloss to make them shiny again since they are supposed to be glass. I also applied a touch of clear gloss to the horizon sensors. Then the retro packs were attached with drops of CA glue applied to the ends of the straps. That finishes up the capsules themselves.

Next was the replacement base. I used a 4″ round base from Hobby Lobby and some metal rods. I cut the rods to different lengths to display the capsules at different heights. I also used the Mercury 7 logo from the supplied stand. I painted the rods and base black then sprayed the base with matte clear to reduce the shine. I painted the Mercury 7 logo with Alclad II black base and then Alclad II Chrome. It was then attached to the base with CA glue.

This kit from Horizon Models builds into a nice model for its size. I enjoyed this kit, it was a nice break once in a while from the stealth XST build. I really hope Horizon Models expands their line and makes a Gemini kit. Now it is time to move to the next build which is the BanDai 1/72 scale Y-Wing starfighter. I haven’t posted about this build yet, but I have been working on it between the stealth XST and the Mercury builds.

Thanks for looking.

Pegasus 1/72 Lockheed XST Build Update 4 (Final)

Picking up from the last update, I masked and painted the intake grill areas. You can also see that I have painted the exhaust area a red-brown color. I’ve found no photos of that area of the aircraft, so I took modeler’s license and painted the area to represent an area to absorb left over heat from the exhaust. I then gave the craft and overall coat of matte clear. I did not put any decals on it. After viewing all my available photos of the plane, I could not find any that showed the plane having markings on it. Of course, all of the photos may be doctored since I believe that parts of the project are still classified.

I next removed the masking from the cockpit canopy. Fortunately I didn’t get any areas of leakage under the masking. The plastic is not the clearest plastic I’ve ever had on a model. Even after coating both sides of the clear plastic with Future floor finish, it still shows some distortions, but I can live with it.

The landing gear came from an F-5 kit that I had. I’m not sure if I’ll ever get around to building it, so swiping the gear from it was no big deal. I decided not to use the Pegasus supplied landing gear since the mains were just too short. The nose gear could have been used but I liked the F-5 nose gear and used it instead. I did use the wheels that came in the kit. I had to drill holes in the hubs of the wheels. I didn’t want just a butt fit. I felt that since the F-5 gear had a peg, I should at least drill a hole for it in the wheels.

Continue reading “Pegasus 1/72 Lockheed XST Build Update 4 (Final)”

Horizon Models 1/72 Mercury Spacecraft Build Update 1

I needed a break from the XST build so I went back to work on the Mercury spacecraft pair. I sprayed the forward part of the capsules with Tamiya white primer. After giving that a day to cure I masked off the top and then glued on the nose of the capsules. I then removed the ribbing from part of the nose for the horizon sensor PE part on each capsule. I also glued on the deployed destabilizing flap to the front of the noses. You will need to refer to the instructions to be sure you get them placed in the appropriate orientation. Once that was done I sprayed the completed capsules with Tamiya Fine gray primer.

I masked off the heat shield on each capsule and sprayed the rest with Tamiya NATO Black. When that had dried, I removed all the masking.

Next, I bent the PE retro pack retaining straps to the proper angles. It helps to use the retro pack as a guide on how much and where to bend the straps. With the straps properly shaped, I took one of them and used CA to glue it to the porthole (MR-3) version’s retro pack. I’ll wait to glue one to the window version retro pack until after all the decals are applied to it. The porthole version did not have any of the lines on the retro pack like the window version did. In the first two pictures I have the retro pack just dry fitted and will glue it on later in the build.

The decals on the window version retro pack were next and I started with the three decals that cover the end of the retro pack and surround the retro rocket nozzles. This was made much easier since they put a hole in the decal right where each posigrade rocket is on the retro pack. The posigrade rockets are the tiny bumps you see along the edge of the retro pack between each retro rocket nozzle.

The next decals to go on were the three decals that covered the end of each retro nozzle. I had some problems with these decals. First the lines on the decals are not long enough. They should go from the nozzle end all the way down the nozzle to the top of the retro pack. They only go down the mostly straight portion of the nozzle. The next problem they presented was that even though they had the backing for each individual line separated from each other, the backing still went too far from the center of the decal. This made it very hard to get the decal to lay down properly over the nozzle.

I had to remove the first decal and set it aside. I was able to keep it in one piece and placed it on a piece of parchment paper to dry. Once it was dry I used a sharp #11 blade and cut the backing closer to the center. I then put Micro Sol on the nozzle and reapplied the decal. This time I was able to dab small drops of Micro Sol to the lines and they then laid down properly. It was still difficult to get the lines properly separated from each other.

When all three nozzles were finished I applied the lines that go around the outside edge of the retro pack. The only tricky part of this decal is getting the lines to line up with the first decals that were applied. I cut the decal into three sections to make it easier to apply.

The final thing I did at this time was to drill a hole in the side of each capsule. I decided that I didn’t like the provided mount after all and would do one of my own. Mine will use a section of 3/32 steel rod to hold each capsule. I drilled the hole through the outside of the capsule and through one side of the inner cylinder. This will provide a solid mount that the will hold the capsule in the proper orientation.

This also meant that I had to fill the hole in the heat shield that I had previously drilled. I will then mask and repaint each heat shield before attaching the retro packs. The porthole version has a grayish heat shield that was made from beryllium. The window version had an ablative heat shield which was a reddish brown color. I’ll paint the window version heat shield for the next update.

That is it for now. Thanks for looking.