BanDai 1/72 Scale Millennium Falcon Perfect Grade Build Update 1

After the main console was finished, I moved on to the side walls of the cockpit.  I had already given up the idea of using decals for the side walls.  Instead I painted them with a clear flat and then started painting the gray areas.  From there I moved on to dry brushing the lights and buttons with silver.  Then used some transparent blue and red to color some of the buttons.  Here are the results.  I think it turned out relatively well.

In the first post on this build I indicated that I was going to try to apply my custom decal to the back wall of the cockpit.

Back wall light blocked and next to it the custom decal.

Well it didn’t turn out well.  I applied the decal using MicroSet, but it became evident very quickly that there were too many raised areas on the back wall and some of them were larger than I thought.  Off came the decal and I repainted the back wall with primer and matt black.  I then painted the lighter panels with Tamyia NATO Black, the padding around the door with Model Air Sand Yellow and the door itself with Tamyia Dark Sea Gray.  Then I started removing paint from the areas that I wanted light to come through.  I also added a bit of Tamyia transparent Blue, Red and Green to add color to the lights and buttons on the wall.  I used the transparent colors on both the front and the back to enhance the color.  I sanded the back side of the light bars to diffuse the light at bit.  I also sprayed the back side with some Matt Clear to add a bit of diffusion there as well.

Before putting the cockpit in the hull I noticed that the way the light shines on it from behind, that BanDai has intended for only the light bars to shine.  None of the buttons and lights would shine.  To remedy that, I did some surgery on the hull part.  This should allow some of the light to fall on the rest of the wall and not just the light bars.

I then also saw that the LED holder had just tiny holes for the light to shine through.  I used a round file to open the holes up and allow more light through.

Once that was done I put the LEDs in place, turned them on and checked how it looks.

With that complete, I started on finishing the cockpit assembly.  I painted the inside of the window piece.  The lower section was painted black in line with the side panels and then the rest of the interior was given a black wash to show detail and give it a bit of a grimy look, then it was sprayed with Matt Clear.  Next I snapped the hull halves together.  I then noticed that the halves would not close completely without some pressure.  Time for the plastic weld.  I glued the outside section together first, followed by the side facing the rest of the ship.  I was able to close all the seam lines except for the last section that would head toward the rest of the ship.  There was a gap that I just couldn’t close.  I pulled out some 0.05 inch plastic sheet and cut a small section to put into the gap.  Then I used my plastic weld on it and when that was dry I cut off the excess.  The gap is now nicely closed.

I then attached all the rest of the plastic bits that needed to go on, including an optional photoetch grill section.  The cockpit window section doesn’t quite fit right.  I will wait to glue that part in until I get it all painted.

On to the next section.  Thanks for looking.

BanDai 1/72 Scale Millennium Falcon Perfect Grade Build

Here is the new project.  The Millennium Falcon in 1/72 scale by BanDai.  The kit is beautifully detailed and very closely matches the studio model.  If you check out the parts closely, you can see the parts that came from other plastic models of the day.  For example, I’ve found a transmission case and under chassis from car models, suspension parts from cars and tanks and other tiny bits that the ILM modelers used to create the Falcon.  It is a very cool kit.  It also includes a lighting kit so I won’t have to try and add those components.  The parts are all very crisply molded and no signs of flash anywhere.  Most mold lines and ejector pin marks are in hidden areas so they don’t mar the finish or require much cleaning.  On the other hand, with the hundreds of small parts and sub assemblies this model will take a bit of time to complete.  This build series will probably have some long gaps between posts since it will take time to find breaking points.

Anyway, it’s time to start.  I’ll be starting with the cockpit.  I don’t do figures or cockpits very often so they are not one of my strong points.  I hope I can do the model justice.

I started by spraying primer on the cockpit seats and the figures.  I then gathered the colors I needed for the figures, Flesh, Aged White, White Gray, Red Brown, Black, Blue, White, Light Brown, Gold, Sand Yellow, Transparent Yellow and Silver.  I used a small fine brush to get the faces and hands, then started on the clothes with the varying shades of white, gray and brown.

C3-PO and Chewbacca got and undercoat of black.  Then C3-PO got painted Gold and then that was overcoated with the transparent yellow which really gave him a nice gold look.  Chewbacca got an overall coat of red brown.  His belt, face and legs got a drybrush of black to darken those areas. Then a drybrush of light brown.  The boxes on his belt were painted silver and his face got a light drybrush of black to bring out some details and highlight his nose.  The figures aren’t perfect but for me they turned out well.  Meanwhile the padding on the seats got a coat of sand yellow.

Next I started on the cockpit control panels.  BanDai includes a some nice decals for the instrument panels.  I have heard from many sources that the decals don’t lay down well over the control panels and decal solvents don’t  help much.  So in light of that, I made a set of custom decals using my decal paper and my ALPS printer.  The decals turned out well.  After clear coating the front control panel I applied the first two decals.  After several applications of Micro Sol the decals finally laid down pretty well over the raised details.  It was good that my custom decals are so thin, otherwise I don’t think they would have worked at all.  The control panel between the two main panels had some LARGE raised areas and when I tried to apply a decal to that area, the decal just would not conform well at all.  I ended up taking a fine brush and hand painting the area.

It looks like, from that experience that the panels on the side walls will have to be hand painted.  I’m still holding out some hope that the decal for the back wall will work.  The raised areas on that panel are not that large.  We shall see.

More to come.

2001 Discovery XD-1 Build Complete

Well construction is done on the Discovery XD-1.  I made my goal of finishing it before Christmas (if you don’t count the stand).  I’m still working on how I want to display it.  I don’t know if I’ll use the stands that are included in the in kit or if I’ll try to find something else.  It is quite a long model and takes up a fair amount of space.  I may try to find a solution that allows me to hang it from the wall.  Anyway, when I come up with something I’ll probably post an epilogue on it.

I glued the forward neck sections together and added the spine connecting piece to the reactor section.

With painting complete I removed the remaining masking and started installing the interior of the command sphere.  I first installed the window shelf before using CA glue to place the cockpit in the upper half of the sphere.  I then applied some JB Weld epoxy around the edges as an additional light blocking and to permanently attach the cockpit.

Next came the pod bay installation into the lower sphere half.  Here I needed to make an adjustment.  If i tried to place the pod bay in where it fit then the extended pod platform wouldn’t fit since I had included the door frame.  If I had left off the door frame then it would have been fine.  To fix it. I installed the pod bay just a bit higher in the sphere half.  This meant that the bottom of the interior would not rest in the bottom of the sphere.  This would lead to a very weak attachment at just a couple of points at the top of the pod bay.  To sturdy it up, I added some styrene extensions to the bottom of the pod bay.  They were at first attached with CA then after the pod bay was properly glued in, I used some JB Weld to more permanently attach them.  It is now installed very firmly to the sphere.

Next I glued the two sphere halves together with some Tenax.  With the sphere together I, soldered the cockpit and pod bay wires together and then added the long wires that will travel the length of the spine back to the batteries in the reactor section.  I then threaded that wire through the command sphere back plate and glued it to the command sphere.

I then turned my attention to the steel rod that went into the reactor section.  I needed to create an opening in it to allow the wires to exit the spine and get attached to the battery switch.  I used my Dremel tool to grind of a section and then used a file to remove the sharp bits.

Now I could start building the spine to put the rest of the model together.  I used a bit of JB Weld epoxy in the back of the command sphere where the forward rod was to go.  Then I threaded the wire through the rod and put the rod in the command sphere back.  Next I glued the neck section to the command sphere back.  This would also help center the rod in the command sphere back since there was a bit of play at that joint.

I was then able to start adding the spine sections with CA.  The forward section was finished with the addition of the antenna complex.  The antenna complex also contains the rod connecting sleeve.  I glued the sleeve to the forward rod with a bit of CA trying my best to get the antenna section lined up properly with the command sphere.

Then I moved on to the the rear section of the spine.  First was to thread the wire through the rear rod.  I had to slide on the spine sections and reactor section even though I would not be gluing them at this time.  This was necessary to make it easier to get the wire through the small hole in the rod.  I then applied CA to the rod and sleeve in the antenna array.  Now I could start gluing the spine sections as earlier for the forward section.  Finally the reactor section was glued in place.

Next came adding the containers.  This required special attention to the instructions to be sure that they were glued on in the proper order  Some of the sections were a bit trickier that others since they had only one attachment point and a large over hang on one side.  But it all went well and surprisingly enough I didn’t have to redo any containers.

Once the containers were on I used some black wash on the engine exhausts, glued then in place in the engine stalks and then glued the completed engines to the reactor section.  Unfortunately the engines do not touch each other as they do in the film.  I couldn’t come up with a satisfactory fix so I just left them with a small gap between each other.  I also soldered the wires together in the reactor section which completed the wiring process.  The pictures show the lighting bluer than it actually looks.

I epoxied the stand sections to their steel rods and sprayed them with primer.  I believe I will paint base and rod matte black and the top piece I’ll paint with the base color of the model.  Like I said at the beginning I’m still not sure exactly how I will finally mount it.

That was a fun build and I really like the final product.  Thanks for following along.

2001 Discovery XD-1 Build Part 9

Progress has finally made it to the color coat stage.  After hand brushing the darker gray colors and then masking them I painted everything in my base color using Vallejo Model Color White Gray.  To my eye it makes the perfect base color.  It is almost white with just a hint of gray.  I sprayed all the parts with the base color.  Model Color is primarily intended for brush painting but I was able to airbrush it by thinning it 50/50 with a custom thinner I made that was 66% distilled water and 33% isopropyl alcohol with a few drops of Model Color Flow Improver added.  This worked very well and gave me pretty even coverage.

After painting the base color I removed all the masking, except for the open pod bay door and the cockpit window area.  I let the paint set for a day and then mixed a batch of 25/75 base color/thinner and applied a mist coat over the command sphere and neck parts that had the darker gray areas.  This toned down the difference in shade from the base color and looks pretty good to my eye.  Sorry I didn’t get any before pictures.  I’ll apply a clear flat overcoat to protect the paint.  It is rather fragile and can be damaged if not handled carefully.  The clear coat should give a tougher surface.

Next up will be to start installing the interior parts into the command sphere and continuing the assembly.

Thanks for looking.

2001 Discovery XD-1 Build Part 8

I didn’t get as much done this week as I wanted.  The holidays tend to do that.  But there was progress.

I assembled the 10 spine parts.  These each consisted of 5 pieces.  There were no locator pins since there needed to be room to run the metal tube through them. They did have an over lapping lip that helped the parts go together.  Once the two halves were set, then the three reinforcing ribs were added.  Then I just needed to do that 9 more times.  I also then assembled the cargo/fuel containers.  You have to build 60 containers of 5 different types.  The fit was pretty good.  Some Tenax and a bit of pressure glued them together with very few seam lines.  The parts are all keyed so there is very little chance of putting them together incorrectly, but some organization will speed the process.   There are some seams on the back sides that may not be hidden.  I may not fill the seams if they can’t be seen.  But, they are all done and ready for primer.

I also took the time to glue some sheet styrene pieces into the reactor section to hold the battery holder in place.  They should keep the batteries from moving around when the model is moved.

Now that all the parts are primed, it is time to start masking the larger parts and painting the dark panels.  I’ve started with the command sphere.  I’ve masked off the areas to remain light gray.  I’ve started painting on the two darker shades of gray.  You can see that on the command sphere half on the right in the photo.  When I get all the darker gray areas painted I’ll mask over them and spray on some Vallejo White Gray for the base color.  After that will come some detail painting on the spine and reactor sections.  One that is complete the whole thing will get a mist coat of White Gray to tone down the dark panels.

That’s it for now.

2001 Discovery XD-1 Build Part 7

The cockpit light boxes were a bit more difficult than the pod bay.  They had to fit around some complicated shapes.   This time I made some patterns out of index cards.  I then trimmed the patterns until they fix nicely around the cockpit.  I then used this as a pattern to cut out the shape in styrene sheet.  I then slightly scored the sheet at the fold lines to make bending simpler.  The boxes were then glued together with Tenax cement.  I then checked them against the cockpit and made whatever final trims were needed to make them fit fairly well.  Any small irregularities would be covered up with JB Weld epoxy when they were permanently attached.

With the light boxes installed, I decided to light them up and see what they looked like.  They look pretty good.  The photos are a little bluer than what they actually look like.  The different colored panels and buttons in the cockpit light up really well.  Too bad most of it will be unseen when the whole model is complete.

With the lighting complete for now, I moved on to the antenna array.  I followed the order of construction for the array, and found out that I should have done more test fitting first.  The main antenna went on fine, as well as the cross piece and the spike.  But the lower portion of the antenna mount does not fit that well and required some sanding, filling and more sanding.  All of that would have been a lot simpler if I had installed those pieces before adding the main antenna.  I think what I have done will look OK but it would have been a lot easier if I had done some checking first.  (Normally I do, but I got a case of “go fever”.)

The connector tube that is in the base of the antenna mount required a bit of adjustment to line up with the hole properly on both ends.  This tube connects the forward and rear tubes that run the length of the spine.  Also in the third picture above, notice the small antennas.  I did not use the small spikes in the kit.  Instead I cut thin sections of plastic runner and glued them to the center.  If you look carefully at the small antennas in the movie, you can see that they do not have spikes.  Instead they have flat plates with some small rectangular details on them.  At this small scale, I couldn’t get the small rectangles right so I left them as just flat plates.

Next I moved on to the back of the command sphere and the reactor/engine section.   First I took the back of the command sphere and drilled a hole to allow the wires to pass from the sphere, through the spine back to the reactor section where the batteries and switch will be.  I made sure that the hole is not so large that the tube will pass through.  I then moved on to the forward neck section. I left it in three pieces to make painting easier.

The reactor section also needed modification.  In order to get access to the inside where the batteries will be, I needed to lengthen the slots that hold the detail panels.  I then applied the detail panels to the top and bottom of the reactor section.  The lengthened slots and not gluing the two halves together will allow the top section to be removed and provide access to the inside.  I then added the rear neck pieces.  Finally, I assembled the three main engines.

With the main sections complete, the next thing up is the extremely repetitious spine and cargo pods.  I’ve got them removed from their runners and organized in numbered cups.  I still need to clean up the edges and then start putting them all together.  Hopefully I can get them done soon since next week’s weather is favorable for painting.

Thanks for looking.

2001 Discovery XD-1 Build Part 6

I have complete installing the pod bay doors.  They required some filling and sanding as they are just slightly smaller than the opening in the command sphere.  I cemented the doors in and made the frames flush with the bottom of the opening.  The kept the gap at the top of the opening.  I inserted narrow strips of sheet styrene to fill as much of the gap as possible.  This was then cemented in with Tenax 7R.  The tiny bit of gap that was left was filled in with some small dabs of gap filling CA.

Next came masking of the command sphere halves.  The lower half only needed to have its glue tab masked to give a better bonding surface later on.  The upper half needed to also have its glue tab masked, but also the cockpit window opening.

I also started work on the light boxes for the pod bay section.  I started by using some .010 sytrene sheet cut to form the shape and size of light box I needed.  The sides of the pod bay used rectangular boxes and the top needed a pie shaped piece.  I then sprayed the inside with gloss black paint and then checked for light leaks.  I had touched up any light leaks and then painted the inside chrome silver.  After that had dried for a day, I cut out small rectangles for the LED’s to be installed.  I tacked them in place with some white glue.

When the white glue dried, I mixed some 5-minute epoxy and then put a dab over each LED and also a spot on the wire leads for each LED.  The extra spot of epoxy will act as a strain relief so that when twisting and moving the wires around it won’t put as much pressure on the LED’s.  After the epoxy set, I painted the backside of the LED’s with some chrome silver and when that was dry, I applied some gloss black to keep any light from escaping.  After that I, tacked the boxes in place on the pod bay with some Plasti-Zap CA glue.

The next thing to do was to mix up some JB Weld epoxy to permanently attach the light boxes.

That’s it for now.  Next up should be building the light boxes for the cockpit.  Thanks for looking.